BY RACHEL DICKENS
This post is part of our Barely Refined series that gives readers a weekly dose of all things decadent and indulgent.
My love for Asian food is hardly a secret. I’ve written about it too many times to count, I talk about it most days and if you’re ever curious re: my whereabouts, chances are I’m not-so patiently awaiting an order of Angry Crab at Kai Zan.
Following that logic, the idea of me choosing a favorite Asian restaurant is inherently flawed, but thanks to a recent dinner, I can tell you confidently about my favorite noodle dish in the city of Chicago and probably also on the planet.
ATK’s Kao Soy makes the distinction easy.
Side note: I’m still not sure whether I’m supposed to call this place “Andy’s Thai Kitchen” or an acronym of the same, but I do know their food is out of this world, with Kao Soy noodles topping the list. Here’s why:
- It embodies all the great things about curry (subtle coconut vibe, deep heat without the tip-of-the-tongue spice, fortifying flavor that seeps into noodles) without any of the less-than-desirable things about curry (decadent ad nauseum, overuse of peanut sauce).
- Solid balance of protein, red onion and sauce, because nothing’s worse than a weird vegetable in your noodle dish for what I can only imagine is the sake of variety.
- Literal noodles on noodles. Sure, the thin and perfectly cooked strands at the bottom soak up the curry like it’s their last day on earth, but the real kicker here is the crispy mountain of fried noodles that tower over the dish. Taking a bite of both types, along with a slice of tender chicken and a spoonful of curry, might be one of the smartest decisions I’ve ever made.
- $8.50. Pretty sure my job is done here.
Aside from Kao Soy, there’s a lot to like about ATK. It’s inexpensive and BYOB, not to mention the perfect spot for a low-key dinner with friends. And in this case, I’m considering “friends” and “four bowls of Kao Soy for yourself and only yourself” to be one in the same.
Andy’s Thai Kitchen, 946 West Wellington. For more information call 773.549.7821 or visit online.
